Getting absolutely pitted has never been easier.... This is the type of thing that you watch, love , and shortly thereafter do a little throw-up-in-the-mouth action. The latter incident happens when you realize that it could be YOU sitting in those fatty gaping freight train shacks on the daily, accept its not. You're probably living somewhere in Cali, which does have it's day one every ten blue moons, yet hardly stacks up to the stature of many other warm water wave magnets around the globe. The question you have to ask yourself is, "Do I feel lucky?" Kidding... You really have to ask yourself if trading all the civilized nonsense of the good ol' Ooooh Ess of Aahhh for a much slower and relatively less productive lifestyle, in which getting epic sessions is somewhat of a regular occurrence, is worth it. Anyone who has seen that lifestyle firsthand even for a glimpse's worth knows the unreal pot of gold awaiting at the end of that rainbow.
Surfing comprises a primary ritual component of a budding New World Religion. Lacking superstition, our inspired world-view inevitably surfaces after countless encounters with the ocean. Those of us devoted to la playa know the feeling of insignificance earned while paddling out on those days where most "surfers" choose gladly, instead of risking it, to gaze upon the mackers from safe perches atop their overrun oceanside tumbling towers. Scary surf provides the most powerful example of surfing's ability to instill humility in the members of its tribe, wholly undeniable through experiencing the ruthless raw power of Poseidon directly on top of one's head. Lets just say that getting treated like Raggedy Anne on prom night by a wall of whitewater has a tendency to make a person feel small. Within this same realm of fear and humility, confidence is born. Successfully summiting those skyscrapers of the sea again and again gives a new vibrancy to one's state of mind; fire isn't as hot, cliff's aren't as high, the night isn't as dark, and yes- women don't intimidate.
Thus, we who belong to this unholy congregation walk forth with our humility and confidence and we are better for it. Being that my favorite quality of humanity is our adaptability, our new Religion doesn't play the same game of indoctrinating generations into fearing and resisting change. We'll leave that bullshit up to the already established group of sorry-asses. Our philosurphy encourages the reasonable realignment of perspectives on "normal"; case in point- why not swap this ultra-materialistic rat-race lifestyle that some are bound to hate for the daily experience of a Religious Awakening? For those of us who have the itch-> scratch it or watch your dreams dissolve into traffic....
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